P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1) P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1) P0013 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 1) P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) P0015 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1) P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A P0
020 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) P0021 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2) P0022 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2) P0023 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) P0
toyota 1mz-fe misfires & VVT-i related codes KeithG
Registered: 02/11/08 Posts: 58 Loc: Iowa I've got a 2000 ToyotaAvalon with 165K miles. It's been well maintained since new. It was my father-in-laws car (his first new car) and I've owned it since the odom. showed 100K.
Then last week a new code also occurred. P1351 VVT-i sensor range bank 2
The car has sometimes sputtered at idle a bit. At one point, it seemed like the power brakes were strangely stiff. Everything has returned to normal except for the codes and an occasional sputter at idle.
I've changed the oil. Penzoil YB 5-30 with one bottle Valvoline 5-20. I ran some seafoam through in a full tank of gas. I haven't had real look for sludge yet.
Most of the normal maintence has been done by me. (Fluids, belts, plugs, PCV.)
I'm thinking some or all of the following. A bit of sludge on the timing sensor (or bad sensor.) Some ice/ water in the oil. A partially blocked VVT oil screen.
Anyone have some tips for me as I figure this out?
Registered: 05/31/03 Posts: 318 Loc: Kerville, Texas Unless it dies.... I'd keep nursing it on till much warmer weather. It's more likely related to cold temps.
Misfires could be fuel related, try adding some Techron or Regane _________________________ If you think you can, or if you think you can't, You are probably right.
The plugs are OEM and have less than 25K miles on them. The original Denso iridiums lasted about 135K without issue. I changed them before the threw a single misfire code.
The VVT-i system is lubed by engine oil, I'm assuming. People talk about the VVT oil passage screen becoming plugged up. Unfortunately, I think its located in a PITA place behind the power steering pump.
Keith, if you haven't already take a look at the pcv valve. If it's gunked up it's an indication that you may need to look at the VVTi oil control valve filters at the rear of each cylinder head.
My 2000 Avalon has 151,000. I have been using a full synthetic for the last 75K changing every year or 15000 miles whichever occurs first. Use Mobil 1 filters. Car just threw a
P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Checking both of the oil control valves OCV's for voltage both ok. Took out oil and ran 4 quarts AT fluid for 25 minutes. Took out and filled with new Super Tech 5W-30 synthetic. After warm up car misses and check engine light returns.
Ordered two OCV filters 15678-20010 from dealer. Will try to put in tomorrow and report back. I don't think it is water in the gas, because it only misses after warm up. To Alan: Around 95000 engine threw a PO171 'System too lean'. Cleaned MAF sensor with CFC Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner cleared code and it did not come back for 25000.
I have a 2000 Avalon, also. Some of the OBD codes are very specific (malfunction); some are symptomatic of an upstream problem (cylinder 2 misfire). If it's giving you a malfunction code, then the sensor is not giving out the right reading or not giving out a reading at all. Since you're getting a VVTi sensor malfunction, check your OCV (oil control valve).
You have four cams. Two of the cams are intake cams. They have a sprocket/actuator on the end with an inner hub that has fixed vanes. The oil control valves control oil pressure which is used to advance or retard your timing. You can check your OCV by testing the resistance via the two terminals on the sensor.
There should be 6.9 to 7.9 ohms resistance. Also, if you take the sensor out, and you apply voltage to the two terminals, the OCV pluger will move out. When you cut the voltage, the pluger returns back in. I would recommend changing both OCVs at one time. It's a critical part of managing your timing. You wouldn't want a brand new OCV controlling one half of your engine and a 150K mile OCV controlling the other half of your engine.
Also, there is an OCV filter screen which can get clogged. You can pull the filter screens out fairly easily and either clean them or replace them. Good luck!
Toyota Part Numbers: OCV: 15340-20010 (bank with 2,4,6-front) and 15330-20010 (bank with 1,3,5-back) O-ring (for the OCV): 90099-14137 Filter Screen: 15678-20010 Gasket for filter screen bolt: 90430-16007
Should have taken the time to remove the OCV filter before I ordered them. Somehow I talked myself into buying before checking. Well, the OCV filter was clean, but I put the new one anyway. Needless, to say it did not help. Ordered a OCV from the dealership only to wait a week and find out I ordered the OCV for Bank 1.
Wish I had read Carbonbased1 post first, since he knows his stuff. The dealership had the correct OCV in stock and with a little bit of patience, I got it in and all has been well. Just a slight modification for the Part# the Dealership here in NJ has it as TOY153400A010 lIST $79.05. I suggest going to the dealership, to get a genuine OEM replacement. When the weather gets warmer, I will tackle the other side, like suggested by Carbonbased1. Thank you all.
I installed a new bank 2 OCV today and the problem is resolved. the updated part number is listed correctly by OpticNerve.
There were some new engine codes that I saw when I read then erased the OBDII codes. I forgot the numbers, but they related to 'too lean' and OCV performance.
it could be a number of things, mine has been throwing a misfire code for 3 years on and off, especially when the engine is cold. Changed the plugs, wires, igniter, coils, and it still comes up. There are no drivability issues with mine, however. <parimento1
Glad to hear she is running better. Hopefully, the VVTi will continue to function within specifications. As far as the other codes, if you are getting a P0171 or a P0174, it is possible they were triggered by the bad ocv. To be safe, I would suggest cleaning your MAF sensor. The Haynes Manuel Chapter 6 Section 6 describes the procedure rather well if you are not familiar with it. <OpticNerve
Around 98000 back in 2005, my 2000 threw what I found out was a P0171 'System too lean'. Back then I knew noting and took it to the least expensive dealership in my area. They charged me around $100 bucks to pull the code and clean the MAF.
That's when I bought my trusty Haynes Repair Manual. Since then, I taught myself how to change the brake pads and rotors, rear sway bar bushings, cabin filter, and a OCV. I have cleaned the MAF about half a dozen times, every time the check engine light goes on. I now have 152000. Sometimes it just pays to be patient, and not to throw new parts at a problem.
Camry 2002 stalls after start: TPS? Hi everybody. My 2.4l camry 2002 dies right after start. This usually happens with cold starts. I checked multiple threads with similar problems and I have narrowed down the possible culprits. My working theory now is that the TPS or throttle body may be bad. Could I get answers to the following?
1. Is the throttle body fully closed at rest? Mine opens a bit. 2. With ignition at ON (engine not started) my TPS reads 17.6 on my Actron scanner. Is this figure OK?
OTHER THEORIES The only code I ever got is 1656: OCV circuit malfunction. A technician checked and said it was caused by a poor grounding. That code has not returned since then (a few days back). However, I'd still place OCV on the list:
are there any trouble codes (even pending) stored in ECM ? is Check Engine Light on ? does engine speed jump up to e.g. 1,500rpm on cold start and drops to normal speed after warm up ? when exactly does the car die ? how does it die ? any shaking for a few seconds (e.g. too low RPM, not enough fuel, vacuum leak, etc.) ?
Thanks all. Fenixus: The 1565 code turned up again this morning (more on that later). Apart from that, there's 1135: Air Fuel Ratio heater circuit. But that is because when starting causes so much problems, I sometimes disconnect the A/F sensor so the EFI will work in open loop. This seems to keep the engine on.
To answer your other questions: In the morning or after the car has been parked for some time, when I start it, it cranks and starts (RPM gets to around 1500 in the mornings) but instantly, the rpmdrops straight down and the engine stalls. No shaking, as I expect it to do with air leaks; it just dies. If I do this for around 10 - 20 times, the engine finally starts and stays at around 700rpm (I'm guessing this has something to do with the fact that the engine temperature would have increased).
I have done a few tests on my Throttle body and long and short is, I no longer think its the prime suspect, especially since as I said above, the OCV malfunction code came up again. Although I cannot see why an OCV malfunction would present a problem with idling with the A/F sensor connected, but not when it's disconnected, I have investigated today.
I found that the cables between OCV and ECM are good. OCV seems OK. Resistance is 7.9 ohms. Inspecting it shows no gunk. Applying 12v, the solenoid moves smartly. HOWEVER, on checking the signal from the ECM, I found that it is a pulsetrain with pulses of maximum voltage of around 1V. From the manuals, I believe the amplitudes should get to 10V or thereabouts.
So my new theory is that the ECM is supplying signals that would not allow the OCV function properly. I do not know why this would make the car stall only when the A/F sensor is connected but based on the premise that the measured signal voltage is too low, I conclude that the ECM (or at least the OCV+ ad OCV- pins) is bad. I hope to get another ECM before Friday to test this theory.
In the meantime, I would really appreciate your insight.
have you tested the resistance of A/F sensor ? since it stall with sensor connected and works without it, it makes me thinking that it might be the culprit.
P1135 came on probably because you disconnected A/F sensor during engine operation (P1135 is A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Only for California Spec.) or maybe this sensor doesn't get heated up by heater and sends crap signals to ECM on cold start ? just shooting some ideas...
I cannot find toyota specific explanation of P1565, but from google (VW car though) it looks like "P1565 - idle speed control lower limit not attained.", so that would somewhat point to sticky IAC valve in Throttle Body or maybe TPS acting up during cold start up ?
4cyl engines don't have MAF, only MAP. good idea about testing it too or at least checking vacuum lines for leaks .... though vacuum leak usually causes engine hiccups for a second or two before dying ...
i figured u were talking about the 5s, seeing that you have a 2000 solara. Those engines are very well built
Thanks netforcer for the awsome sig! You da man! <BlackCamSe yeah it seems so. no major trouble so far, power output is still good as new. only thing that annoys me is intake/exhaust valves that are not hydraulic and need periodic check and adjustment by replacing shims ... <fenixus
Hi guys, I have the same problem with my 2002 Camry, 4 cyl. It starts up, works for a 30 sec. and then dies. after couple of tries it wont start at all, until it cools down for half an hour. It also gives me a p1565 code, which is the (OCV cirquit malfunctin) I have replaced the OCV sensor, and still the same thing. still dies after 30 sec of run. Still gives me a p 1565 code. I have replaced all engine sensors, I gave up. PLEASE HELP.
Hello guys. Some updates: The problem persists. In recent weeks, I have disconnected the AFR sensor entirely, forcing the car to work in Open Loop. In this state, the stalling-after-cold-starting problem disappears. Come to think of it, other than a P1135 DTC, the car has not had any other problems.
I'm not happy about leaving the car running in open loop though, so I'm still chewing on the problem until I get a new theory to test.
Reading some other posts where engines stall on cold start, the EVAP system could be at fault here. I already checked the VSV for EVAP and it seems OK. Next, when I have time, I intend to check out the Charcoal canister assembly and the VSV for Pressure Switching Valve (primarily because of this post http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/ar.../t-199225.html ).
Hello everyone, please help if you can. My 2002 camry 2.4 stalls after cold start, the engine revs to 1500 rpm and stalls, after 15 tries it finally runs. I also noticed that my OCV relay is clicking like crazy, and when temp goes up high enough to kick the cooling fans in, the cooling relays also are clicking. Sometimes I get a P1565 code. I also noticed when I disconnect the cable from throttle body, my car starts cold and stays on. <arturchik
Technical Description - [ このページを訳す ] bio.souz-96.com/Lexus/RX300.../TECHNICAL_DESCRIPTION.pdf ファイルタイプ: PDF/AdobeAcrobat The 1MZ-FE engine has adopted the VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing-intelligent) system and 3-stage ACIS ...... tioner switches, then multi display a DTC ( Diagnosis Trouble. Code) to indicate if there is a malfunction or not (sensor check ...
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![[381]](https://s.yimg.jp/i/jp/blog/p3/images/paging_for2.gif){kind=small}
車庫いれをする時エンジン不調、再始動不良
平成１３年式のＭＣ２２ＳワゴンＲ、「車庫いれをするときなどに止まりそうになる。」
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/toyboy19742001/19925279.html
TO:SXM10G:3S:DIAG無:始動不良:走行中エンジン不調:ENG-ECU不良と判断する基準:JS0911p94
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/ogw3ogw3/32191959.html
ヤマハ マグザム エンジン不調・加速不良
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/ninja_hattorikun_dx/28492376.html
W１２４ エンジン不調
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/shigetaku09/43653690.html
'98 BMW 328i CABLIORET エンジン不調 エンスト/燃焼不良
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/patagoneer/36039964.html
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:43
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P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0013 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0015 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:44
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020 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0021 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0022 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
P0023 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:45
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024 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0025 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t424744-camry_faqs_information__search_here_and_forum_before_posting.html
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:45
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P1354 VVT-i malfunction bank2
Then last week a new code also occurred.
P1351 VVT-i sensor range bank 2
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1754945
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:47
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toyota 1mz-fe misfires & VVT-i related codes
KeithG
Registered: 02/11/08
Posts: 58
Loc: Iowa I've got a 2000 Toyota Avalon with 165K miles. It's been well maintained since new. It was my father-in-laws car (his first new car) and I've owned it since the odom. showed 100K.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:48
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Decent oil change history. 4-6K OCIs depending on the highway usage. Ran an auto-rx dose through at 110K. Been running a maint. dose ever since.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1754945
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:49
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Since the nasty cold spell last month, the car has been throwing the following codes:
P300 mult. misfires
P302,304,306 misfires cylinder 2,4,6
P1354 VVT-i malfunction bank2
Then last week a new code also occurred.
P1351 VVT-i sensor range bank 2
The car has sometimes sputtered at idle a bit. At one point, it seemed like the power brakes were strangely stiff. Everything has returned to normal except for the codes and an occasional sputter at idle.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:49
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I've changed the oil. Penzoil YB 5-30 with one bottle Valvoline 5-20. I ran some seafoam through in a full tank of gas. I haven't had real look for sludge yet.
Most of the normal maintence has been done by me. (Fluids, belts, plugs, PCV.)
I'm thinking some or all of the following. A bit of sludge on the timing sensor (or bad sensor.) Some ice/ water in the oil. A partially blocked VVT oil screen.
Anyone have some tips for me as I figure this out?
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:50
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Silber Igel
Registered: 05/31/03
Posts: 318
Loc: Kerville, Texas Unless it dies.... I'd keep nursing it on till much warmer weather. It's more likely related to cold temps.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:50
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Misfires could be fuel related, try adding some Techron or Regane
_________________________
If you think you can, or if you think you can't, You are probably right.
ASE Master Auto Tech (retired)
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:51
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Have the spark plugs been inspected or changed in 165K? They probably need to be cleaned and the gap needs to be checked.
VVT-i I don't think has anything to do with oil. It's has more do with ignition.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:52
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The plugs are OEM and have less than 25K miles on them. The original Denso iridiums lasted about 135K without issue. I changed them before the threw a single misfire code.
The VVT-i system is lubed by engine oil, I'm assuming. People talk about the VVT oil passage screen becoming plugged up. Unfortunately, I think its located in a PITA place behind the power steering pump.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:52
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Clean or replace your MAF. <Alan
From what I have read, on the Denso Website, under FAQ for iridium spark plugs.......
Denso Iridium "long life" #SK20R11 is the long life plug...7mm center electrode, platinum ground tab, rated up to 120K miles
Denso Iridium "Power" #IK20 is the high performance version, but only rated for 30K miles.
4mm dia center electrode, non-platinum ground tab
<wiswind
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:54
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Keith, if you haven't already take a look at the pcv valve. If it's gunked up it's an indication that you may need to look at the VVTi oil control valve filters at the rear of each cylinder head.
Edited by kevinf (01/26/10 09:58 PM)
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:55
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My 2000 Avalon has 151,000. I have been using a full synthetic for the last 75K changing every year or 15000 miles whichever occurs first. Use Mobil 1 filters. Car just threw a
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:56
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P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Checking both of the oil control valves OCV's for voltage both ok. Took out oil and ran 4 quarts AT fluid for 25 minutes. Took out and filled with new Super Tech 5W-30 synthetic. After warm up car misses and check engine light returns.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:57
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Ordered two OCV filters 15678-20010 from dealer. Will try to put in tomorrow and report back. I don't think it is water in the gas, because it only misses after warm up.
To Alan: Around 95000 engine threw a PO171 'System too lean'. Cleaned MAF sensor with CFC Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner cleared code and it did not come back for 25000.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:57
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I have a 2000 Avalon, also. Some of the OBD codes are very specific (malfunction); some are symptomatic of an upstream problem (cylinder 2 misfire). If it's giving you a malfunction code, then the sensor is not giving out the right reading or not giving out a reading at all. Since you're getting a VVTi sensor malfunction, check your OCV (oil control valve).
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:58
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You have four cams. Two of the cams are intake cams. They have a sprocket/actuator on the end with an inner hub that has fixed vanes. The oil control valves control oil pressure which is used to advance or retard your timing. You can check your OCV by testing the resistance via the two terminals on the sensor.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:58
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There should be 6.9 to 7.9 ohms resistance. Also, if you take the sensor out, and you apply voltage to the two terminals, the OCV pluger will move out. When you cut the voltage, the pluger returns back in. I would recommend changing both OCVs at one time. It's a critical part of managing your timing. You wouldn't want a brand new OCV controlling one half of your engine and a 150K mile OCV controlling the other half of your engine.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:59
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Also, there is an OCV filter screen which can get clogged. You can pull the filter screens out fairly easily and either clean them or replace them. Good luck!
Toyota Part Numbers:
OCV: 15340-20010 (bank with 2,4,6-front) and 15330-20010 (bank with 1,3,5-back)
O-ring (for the OCV): 90099-14137
Filter Screen: 15678-20010
Gasket for filter screen bolt: 90430-16007
2011/8/30(火) 午前 5:59
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Should have taken the time to remove the OCV filter before I ordered them. Somehow I talked myself into buying before checking. Well, the OCV filter was clean, but I put the new one anyway. Needless, to say it did not help. Ordered a OCV from the dealership only to wait a week and find out I ordered the OCV for Bank 1.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:00
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Wish I had read Carbonbased1 post first, since he knows his stuff. The dealership had the correct OCV in stock and with a little bit of patience, I got it in and all has been well. Just a slight modification for the Part# the Dealership here in NJ has it as TOY153400A010 lIST $79.05. I suggest going to the dealership, to get a genuine OEM replacement. When the weather gets warmer, I will tackle the other side, like suggested by Carbonbased1. Thank you all.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:00
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Just an update...
I installed a new bank 2 OCV today and the problem is resolved. the updated part number is listed correctly by OpticNerve.
There were some new engine codes that I saw when I read then erased the OBDII codes. I forgot the numbers, but they related to 'too lean' and OCV performance.
Thanks for all the help.
<KeithG
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:02
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it could be a number of things, mine has been throwing a misfire code for 3 years on and off, especially when the engine is cold. Changed the plugs, wires, igniter, coils, and it still comes up. There are no drivability issues with mine, however.
<parimento1
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:03
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Glad to hear she is running better. Hopefully, the VVTi will continue to function within specifications. As far as the other codes, if you are getting a P0171 or a P0174, it is possible they were triggered by the bad ocv. To be safe, I would suggest cleaning your MAF sensor. The Haynes Manuel Chapter 6 Section 6 describes the procedure rather well if you are not familiar with it.
<OpticNerve
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:04
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Around 98000 back in 2005, my 2000 threw what I found out was a P0171 'System too lean'. Back then I knew noting and took it to the least expensive dealership in my area. They charged me around $100 bucks to pull the code and clean the MAF.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:04
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That's when I bought my trusty Haynes Repair Manual. Since then, I taught myself how to change the brake pads and rotors, rear sway bar bushings, cabin filter, and a OCV. I have cleaned the MAF about half a dozen times, every time the check engine light goes on. I now have 152000. Sometimes it just pays to be patient, and not to throw new parts at a problem.
Edited by OpticNerve (03/02/10 11:48 AM)
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:05
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http://technical-auto-fukuyama.at.webry.info/theme/b3fb181b88.html
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:17
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Camry 2002 stalls after start: TPS?
Hi everybody. My 2.4l camry 2002 dies right after start. This usually happens with cold starts. I checked multiple threads with similar problems and I have narrowed down the possible culprits. My working theory now is that the TPS or throttle body may be bad. Could I get answers to the following?
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:26
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1. Is the throttle body fully closed at rest? Mine opens a bit.
2. With ignition at ON (engine not started) my TPS reads 17.6 on my Actron scanner. Is this figure OK?
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335244
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:27
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OTHER THEORIES
The only code I ever got is 1656: OCV circuit malfunction. A technician checked and said it was caused by a poor grounding. That code has not returned since then (a few days back). However, I'd still place OCV on the list:
1. Bad OCV/circuit/ECM (shudder!)
2. Leak in air throttle after MAF (VSV for EVAP stuck open?)
3. Bad A/F sensor
Help! I'm getting old fast...
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:27
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check your battery.
My aunti car start and die right after, I replace the battery and it don't die anymore.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:28
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Battery or vacuum leak are your best bet, Check the hose ends fro cracking (don't froget the 2 above the PS pump) also clean the TB with carb spray
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:29
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are there any trouble codes (even pending) stored in ECM ? is Check Engine Light on ?
does engine speed jump up to e.g. 1,500rpm on cold start and drops to normal speed after warm up ? when exactly does the car die ? how does it die ? any shaking for a few seconds (e.g. too low RPM, not enough fuel, vacuum leak, etc.) ?
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:30
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Thanks all.
Fenixus: The 1565 code turned up again this morning (more on that later). Apart from that, there's 1135: Air Fuel Ratio heater circuit. But that is because when starting causes so much problems, I sometimes disconnect the A/F sensor so the EFI will work in open loop. This seems to keep the engine on.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:31
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To answer your other questions: In the morning or after the car has been parked for some time, when I start it, it cranks and starts (RPM gets to around 1500 in the mornings) but instantly, the rpm drops straight down and the engine stalls. No shaking, as I expect it to do with air leaks; it just dies. If I do this for around 10 - 20 times, the engine finally starts and stays at around 700rpm (I'm guessing this has something to do with the fact that the engine temperature would have increased).
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:31
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I have done a few tests on my Throttle body and long and short is, I no longer think its the prime suspect, especially since as I said above, the OCV malfunction code came up again. Although I cannot see why an OCV malfunction would present a problem with idling with the A/F sensor connected, but not when it's disconnected, I have investigated today.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:32
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I found that the cables between OCV and ECM are good. OCV seems OK. Resistance is 7.9 ohms. Inspecting it shows no gunk. Applying 12v, the solenoid moves smartly. HOWEVER, on checking the signal from the ECM, I found that it is a pulsetrain with pulses of maximum voltage of around 1V. From the manuals, I believe the amplitudes should get to 10V or thereabouts.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:33
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So my new theory is that the ECM is supplying signals that would not allow the OCV function properly. I do not know why this would make the car stall only when the A/F sensor is connected but based on the premise that the measured signal voltage is too low, I conclude that the ECM (or at least the OCV+ ad OCV- pins) is bad. I hope to get another ECM before Friday to test this theory.
In the meantime, I would really appreciate your insight.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:34
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have you tested the resistance of A/F sensor ? since it stall with sensor connected and works without it, it makes me thinking that it might be the culprit.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:35
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P1135 came on probably because you disconnected A/F sensor during engine operation (P1135 is A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Only for California Spec.) or maybe this sensor doesn't get heated up by heater and sends crap signals to ECM on cold start ? just shooting some ideas...
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:35
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I cannot find toyota specific explanation of P1565, but from google (VW car though) it looks like "P1565 - idle speed control lower limit not attained.", so that would somewhat point to sticky IAC valve in Throttle Body or maybe TPS acting up during cold start up ?
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:37
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I cannot find exact Diagnostics factory manual for gen5 camry, but look through those, maybe you will find something that rings the bell:
http://www.camrystuff.com/index.php?page=Gen5_Manuals
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:37
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Thanks netforcer for the awsome sig! You da man!
4cyl engines don't have MAF, only MAP. good idea about testing it too or at least checking vacuum lines for leaks .... though vacuum leak usually causes engine hiccups for a second or two before dying ...
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:39
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the 2AZ does have a MAF.....right after the air box.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m3/Ithinkicanflyno/toyotaengine.jpg
Thanks netforcer for the awsome sig! You da man!
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:41
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ahh, sorrry, i was thinking about 5s-fe ... my bad ... hehe. always learning something new, thanks!
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:42
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i figured u were talking about the 5s, seeing that you have a 2000 solara. Those engines are very well built
Thanks netforcer for the awsome sig! You da man!
<BlackCamSe
yeah it seems so. no major trouble so far, power output is still good as new. only thing that annoys me is intake/exhaust valves that are not hydraulic and need periodic check and adjustment by replacing shims ...
<fenixus
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:44
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Hi guys, I have the same problem with my 2002 Camry, 4 cyl. It starts up, works for a 30 sec. and then dies.
after couple of tries it wont start at all, until it cools down for half an hour. It also gives me a p1565 code, which is the (OCV cirquit malfunctin) I have replaced the OCV sensor, and still the same thing. still dies after 30 sec of run. Still gives me a p 1565 code. I have replaced all engine sensors, I gave up. PLEASE HELP.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:45
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Hello guys. Some updates: The problem persists. In recent weeks, I have disconnected the AFR sensor entirely, forcing the car to work in Open Loop. In this state, the stalling-after-cold-starting problem disappears. Come to think of it, other than a P1135 DTC, the car has not had any other problems.
I'm not happy about leaving the car running in open loop though, so I'm still chewing on the problem until I get a new theory to test.
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:46
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Reading some other posts where engines stall on cold start, the EVAP system could be at fault here. I already checked the VSV for EVAP and it seems OK. Next, when I have time, I intend to check out the Charcoal canister assembly and the VSV for Pressure Switching Valve (primarily because of this post http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/ar.../t-199225.html ).
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:46
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Hello everyone, please help if you can. My 2002 camry 2.4 stalls after cold start, the engine revs to 1500 rpm and stalls, after 15 tries it finally runs. I also noticed that my OCV relay is clicking like crazy, and when temp goes up high enough to kick the cooling fans in, the cooling relays also are clicking. Sometimes I get a P1565 code. I also noticed when I disconnect the cable from throttle body, my car starts cold and stays on.
<arturchik
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:47
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Technical Description - [ このページを訳す ]
bio.souz-96.com/Lexus/RX300.../TECHNICAL_DESCRIPTION.pdf
ファイルタイプ: PDF/Adobe Acrobat
The 1MZ-FE engine has adopted the VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing-intelligent) system and 3-stage ACIS ...... tioner switches, then multi display a DTC ( Diagnosis Trouble. Code) to indicate if there is a malfunction or not (sensor check ...
http://www.lexusdriver.ru/filter-rx/page-217.htm
2011/8/30(火) 午前 6:50
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