320i e90: I have a December 2006 e90BMW 320i 6 speed manual.
I have a December 2006 e90BMW 320i 6 speed manual. Engine light appears on and is causing the power to disengage. Diagnostic says the following codes : 2A67 Valvetronic - Internal fault 2a6F Valvetronic mini lift exceeder 2a6B VVT power limit servo 2A59 - VVT - Leading Sensor. Would like any help or information on what may need replacement or service. Thanks
The most common thing I have seen is a failed eccentric shaft sensor. This is what tells the valvetronic what position it is in. This sensor can fail in a few ways.
One of the most common ways it fails is that oil seeps through the pins of the sensor and the connector fills with oil. This can then cause the check engine light to come on and some running issues.
I had helped another person with this problem recently and they found oil in the sensor. Sometimes you can clean the oil and the contacts with some contact cleaner and blow the oil out and the failure will be good for a short time.
This is the instructions I sent the other person to help him check the sensor.
In rare cases this could be the valvetronic motor, an issue with the power supply to the motor, or an internal engine problem but the sensor is the most common cause.
I hope this is helpful. Please provide positive feedback. An excellent rating is appreciated. Please do not leave negative feedback as my goal is to help you to the best of my ability.
The VANOS solenoids usually set timing faults like camshaft and crankshaft correlation and not VVT faults. The VVT faults would be from a different system than the VANOS. They both have to do with timing but the VVT is for valve lift. Usually a bad sensor but I have seen the VVT motor fail as well. But 9 times out of 10 is is a bad valvetronic sensor.
Just had my mechanic stop in to reset the computer but the light came straight back on, BMW service department said its gonna be the solenoid but my mechanic doesn't think it will be either.
My engine seems to be differently configured then the one u had in the video and the electronic component box isn't in that same spot. Do you have any diagrams for the N46B20B engine? Should i have my mechanic pull off the rocker cover and replace the sensor and clean out the solenoids ?
Since the fault comes right back it will be helpful in rooting out the problem. I do not think the vanos solenoids are the main problem but the best way to test this would be to do the cleaning of the solenoids and see if the fault comes back. If it does then the sensor would be the next best step.
I hope this helps Jarred :)
Roger, BMW Master Tech Category: BMW Satisfied Customers: 5694 Experience: 10 yrs. experience as BMW Master Technician, shop foreman and dealer.
On occasions my vehicles idle is a little rough and the clutch seems a bit jolty/clangy kind of noise when taking off. But this does not occur all the time. Could this VVT issue cause that problem aswell or would that more be considered a clutch issue. As it only happens on occasions and isn't consistent i wasn't sure if the clutch was damaged.
Also we have noticed the Vanos solenoid ( top one ) is leaking a little bit of oil. IF you are able to tell me what the part number is XXXXX replace these o-rings and also the other recommended replacement gaskets/seals etc when carrying out the process of replacing the eccentric shaft sensor. I want to avoid all leaks and i would prefer to replace all needed gaskets then to run that risk.
Thank you very much for all your help, you have been great! Thanks Jarred
A few things come to mind with this. The rough idle could definitely be related to the VVT issue. The jolt could be also related due to the VVT is what controls throttle and intake valve opening. The noise could be a result of the jolt but it may also just be the normal driveshaft noise that many BMW's have.
Hopefully there is nothing going on with the clutch itself :)
In the above diagram you may also need the bolts as most of these are one time use bolts due to them being aluminum. I have seen the heads break off so it is a good idea to replace these as well.
I hope you are up and running soon with no more problems!
Just an update for you. I dropped my car to my mechanic today and he cleaned both solenoids out from the vanos and told me the lower one appeared to be in bad condition and the seal was not sealing properly.
So he cleaned it all out with break cleaner and air compressor. He reinstalled and reset the codes and it appears it has solved the issue.. I have just driven 100 Kms in the car and the engine light remains off. I'm wondering if I should still be concerned about the eccentric shaft sensor. Hopefully this has fixed it.
That is great news! At this point if everything is good you could just wait and see. If there was some oil in the connector of the sensor it will most likely cause an issue down the road at some point. I have seen just cleaning out the eccentric shaft sensor and pins work for quite some time as well. You could just do a periodic check to make sure all is well.
So I haven't driven the car for 18 hours and when I started it to leave just earlier the engine light came back on. I'm not sure where to go from here ... Replace the solenoid or go straight for the eccentric shaft sensor. Why do u think
I have a high suspicion that the eccentric shaft sensor is still the underlying culprit. Usually the solenoids give different faults than eccentric shaft sensor and VVT faults. You could scan the vehicle to see what kind of codes you have and base your decision off of that.
jas 3 years ago #1 About two months ago my three-year-old E90 320i had a warning for ‘Full engine power no longer available. Continue at moderate speed with caution. Have engine checked ASAP’ (yellow warning, chimes on start/shutdown). Before I could have it checked, the warning went away by itself. I put off the check since a service was coming up.
Went for service two weeks ago ￢– diagnostic tests were OK, or so they said.
Now the warning is back on and the car wouldn’t start. Had it on a flatbed to a service center. Found diagnostic failure codes for (1) valvetronic servo motor (2) eccentric shaft sensor. The tech guy suggested to replace both items since they’re the source of the fail codes. Parts are now on order.
I’m now past the warranty period. Early death of the fanciful valvetronic is one concern on my mind. The other is that I’m not too convinced if this is the best way to deal with the problem.
Does anyone know of any BMW Procedures to further isolate the defect or narrow down the troubleshooting process ? Any help would be appreciated.
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2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:00
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320i e90: I have a December 2006 e90 BMW 320i 6 speed manual.
I have a December 2006 e90 BMW 320i 6 speed manual. Engine light appears on and is causing the power to disengage. Diagnostic says the following codes :
2A67 Valvetronic - Internal fault
2a6F Valvetronic mini lift exceeder
2a6B VVT power limit servo
2A59 - VVT - Leading Sensor.
Would like any help or information on what may need replacement or service.
Thanks
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:01
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Expert: Roger replied 7 months ago.
Hello,
Can I please have the last seven digits of the VIN number?
Thank you.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:02
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Expert: Roger replied 7 months ago.
Thank you.
The most common thing I have seen is a failed eccentric shaft sensor. This is what tells the valvetronic what position it is in. This sensor can fail in a few ways.
One of the most common ways it fails is that oil seeps through the pins of the sensor and the connector fills with oil. This can then cause the check engine light to come on and some running issues.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:03
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I had helped another person with this problem recently and they found oil in the sensor. Sometimes you can clean the oil and the contacts with some contact cleaner and blow the oil out and the failure will be good for a short time.
This is the instructions I sent the other person to help him check the sensor.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:05
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http://youtu.be/EDDB1qQSvSY
In rare cases this could be the valvetronic motor, an issue with the power supply to the motor, or an internal engine problem but the sensor is the most common cause.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:05
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I hope this is helpful. Please provide positive feedback. An excellent rating is appreciated. Please do not leave negative feedback as my goal is to help you to the best of my ability.
Thank you.
Best Regards,
Roger
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:06
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Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Is it also common for the solenoids to cause this problem ?
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:06
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Expert: Roger replied 7 months ago.
Hello Jarred,
The VANOS solenoids usually set timing faults like camshaft and crankshaft correlation and not VVT faults. The VVT faults would be from a different system than the VANOS. They both have to do with timing but the VVT is for valve lift. Usually a bad sensor but I have seen the VVT motor fail as well. But 9 times out of 10 is is a bad valvetronic sensor.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:07
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Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Just had my mechanic stop in to reset the computer but the light came straight back on, BMW service department said its gonna be the solenoid but my mechanic doesn't think it will be either.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:09
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My engine seems to be differently configured then the one u had in the video and the electronic component box isn't in that same spot. Do you have any diagrams for the N46B20B engine? Should i have my mechanic pull off the rocker cover and replace the sensor and clean out the solenoids ?
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:10
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Expert: Roger replied 7 months ago.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=VA76&mospid=48481&btnr=11_3179&hg=11&fg=15
#7 is the gasket for the VVT sensor.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=VA76&mospid=48481&btnr=11_3009&hg=11&fg=25
This is the link for the sensor I suspect is the main source of the problem.
This is component #7 in the picture diagram.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:11
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Since the fault comes right back it will be helpful in rooting out the problem. I do not think the vanos solenoids are the main problem but the best way to test this would be to do the cleaning of the solenoids and see if the fault comes back. If it does then the sensor would be the next best step.
I hope this helps Jarred :)
Roger, BMW Master Tech
Category: BMW
Satisfied Customers: 5694
Experience: 10 yrs. experience as BMW Master Technician, shop foreman and dealer.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:12
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Customer: replied 7 months ago.
On occasions my vehicles idle is a little rough and the clutch seems a bit jolty/clangy kind of noise when taking off. But this does not occur all the time. Could this VVT issue cause that problem aswell or would that more be considered a clutch issue. As it only happens on occasions and isn't consistent i wasn't sure if the clutch was damaged.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:13
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Also we have noticed the Vanos solenoid ( top one ) is leaking a little bit of oil.
IF you are able to tell me what the part number is XXXXX replace these o-rings
and also the other recommended replacement gaskets/seals etc when carrying out the process of replacing the eccentric shaft sensor. I want to avoid all leaks and i would prefer to replace all needed gaskets then to run that risk.
Thank you very much for all your help, you have been great!
Thanks
Jarred
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:14
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Expert: Roger replied 7 months ago.
Hello Jarred,
A few things come to mind with this. The rough idle could definitely be related to the VVT issue. The jolt could be also related due to the VVT is what controls throttle and intake valve opening. The noise could be a result of the jolt but it may also just be the normal driveshaft noise that many BMW's have.
Hopefully there is nothing going on with the clutch itself :)
For the gaskets:
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:15
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The solenoid O rings are parts 2 and 3 in this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=VA76&mospid=48481&btnr=11_3296&hg=11&fg=15
Make sure to do #7and #2 valve cover gasket in this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=VA76&mospid=48481&btnr=11_3179&hg=11&fg=15
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:16
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In the above diagram you may also need the bolts as most of these are one time use bolts due to them being aluminum. I have seen the heads break off so it is a good idea to replace these as well.
I hope you are up and running soon with no more problems!
Best Regards,
Roger
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:17
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Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Is it necessary to do the vvt motor gasket ? Thanks
Expert: Roger replied 7 months ago.
It would be a good idea depending on its condition. While you have the valve cover off it would be a good idea :)
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:18
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Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Just an update for you. I dropped my car to my mechanic today and he cleaned both solenoids out from the vanos and told me the lower one appeared to be in bad condition and the seal was not sealing properly.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:19
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So he cleaned it all out with break cleaner and air compressor. He reinstalled and reset the codes and it appears it has solved the issue.. I have just driven 100 Kms in the car and the engine light remains off. I'm wondering if I should still be concerned about the eccentric shaft sensor. Hopefully this has fixed it.
Jarred
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:20
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Expert: Roger replied 7 months ago.
Hello Jarred,
That is great news! At this point if everything is good you could just wait and see. If there was some oil in the connector of the sensor it will most likely cause an issue down the road at some point. I have seen just cleaning out the eccentric shaft sensor and pins work for quite some time as well. You could just do a periodic check to make sure all is well.
I also hope your BMW is fixed :)
Best wishes,
Roger
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:21
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Customer: replied 7 months ago.
So I haven't driven the car for 18 hours and when I started it to leave just earlier the engine light came back on. I'm not sure where to go from here ... Replace the solenoid or go straight for the eccentric shaft sensor. Why do u think
Cheers
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:22
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Expert: Roger replied 7 months ago.
Hello Jarred,
I have a high suspicion that the eccentric shaft sensor is still the underlying culprit. Usually the solenoids give different faults than eccentric shaft sensor and VVT faults. You could scan the vehicle to see what kind of codes you have and base your decision off of that.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:23
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Valvetronic died on me !
http://www.7machine.com/bmw/2998.html
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:30
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jas
3 years ago #1
About two months ago my three-year-old E90 320i had a warning for ‘Full engine power no longer available. Continue at moderate speed with caution. Have engine checked ASAP’ (yellow warning, chimes on start/shutdown). Before I could have it checked, the warning went away by itself. I put off the check since a service was coming up.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:32
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Went for service two weeks ago ￢– diagnostic tests were OK, or so they said.
Now the warning is back on and the car wouldn’t start. Had it on a flatbed to a service center. Found diagnostic failure codes for (1) valvetronic servo motor (2) eccentric shaft sensor. The tech guy suggested to replace both items since they’re the source of the fail codes. Parts are now on order.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:34
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I’m now past the warranty period. Early death of the fanciful valvetronic is one concern on my mind. The other is that I’m not too convinced if this is the best way to deal with the problem.
Does anyone know of any BMW Procedures to further isolate the defect or narrow down the troubleshooting process ? Any help would be appreciated.
2013/9/13(金) 午前 7:35
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どうして「連続可変バルブ・リフト」が良いのか？
ガソリンエンジンは，吸入空気量を調整することで，出力（馬力）を設定します。このため，吸入管の途中にスロットル・バルブという弁が付いています。
街乗りくらいの負荷の低い走行条件では，このバルブはほぼ閉じています。このためスロットル・バルブから燃焼室の間は負圧になります。この負圧に打ち勝って，吸入空気を吸うため，エンジンのピストンは大きな仕事をする必要があります。この損失を「ポンピング・ロス」といいます。最大で出力の30～40%にもなります。
バルブのリフト量をほぼゼロから最大まで連続的に可変できれば，スロットル・バルブがなくても，吸入空気量の調整が可能です。これにより，ポンピング・ロスは大幅に減少し，実用域での燃費が改善します。
http://detail.chiebukuro.yahoo.co.jp/qa/question_detail/q1446142139
2014/2/17(月) 午前 6:19
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