Any valve will eventually wear out if driven enough miles. But many valves call it quits long before they should because of burning or breakage.
Let's talk about burning first. Exhaust valves are the ones most likely to burn because they run hotter than the intakes. The intake valves are cooled by the incoming air and fuel, and consequently operate at about 800 degrees F.
Exhaust valves, on the other hand, receive little such cooling and are blasted by the hot combustion gases as they exit through the exhaust port. Exhaust valves run at 1200 to 1350 degrees F. on average, which makes them much more vulnerable to erosion and burning than intakes. The higher operating temperature requires a tougher alloy, so exhaust valves are usually made of stainless steel or have stainless steel heads (typically 21-2N or 21-4N alloy with a high chromium and nickel content).
For heavy-duty gasoline and diesel applications where heat is even more of a problem, a tough Stellite facing (cobaltalloy) may be needed on the exhaust valve face to control wear.
The intake and exhaust valves rely on physical contact with the valve seat and guide for cooling. About 75% of the combustion heat that is conducted away from the valve passes through the seat, so good seat contact is essential to prevent burning.
The remaining 25% of the heat is dissipated up through the valve stem and out through the guides. Sodium filled hollow valve stems in heavy-duty applications are sometimes used to draw even more heat up through the stems to aid cooling. If the valve does not receive adequate cooling, it can overheat, burn and fail.
The exhaust valve (the smaller of the two valves) in this engine has overheated and lost a chunk of metal, causing the cylinder to lose compression. Also note the failed exhaust valve is the same color as the intake valve. A "good" exhaust valve that is sealing and holding compression will usually have white or tan colored ash deposits on it.
Anything that interferes with valve cooling or creates extra heat in the valve or head can lead to premature valve failure. A buildup of deposits on the valve face and seat can have an insulating effect that slows cooling and makes the valve run hot. So too can poor contact between the valve and seat if the seat is too narrow, nonconcentric or off-square.
If deposits build up in one spot or flake off in another, it can allow leaks that create hot spots on the valve and result in "channeling" (grooves eroded or burned into the valve).
Weak springs or insufficient valve lash can also prevent good valve-to-seat contact and allow excessive heat to build up in the valves. A loose seat or poorly fitting guide can also hinder heat transfer to the head and contribute to burning.
Not paying attention to the installed valve height when doing a valve job can lead to burning. When valves and seats are ground or cut, the valves sit deeper in the head than before. This causes the stems to stick up higher which changes the rocker arm geometry and may lead to a loss of valvelash when the engine gets hot.
Two engines where this particular problem has been turning up are the Ford 2300 OHC engine and the rear-wheel drive version of the Mitsubishi 2.6L (which has hydraulic lash adjusters).
If the proper geometry cannot be restored by grinding the tips of the valve stems (no more than about .010 maximum or you run the risk of grinding through the case hardened layer), the seats should be replaced to correct installed height (an expensive fix but cheaper than a comeback).
Another option is to install valves with slightly oversized heads (.030 in.) that ride higher on the seat to compensate for seat machining.
Valve recession can cause the same kind of problem. As the seats wear away and the valves recede into the head, valvelash is lost. Eventually there is little or no lash left and the valve makes poor contact with the seat, overheats and burns.
Valve recession tends to be more of a problem on older engines that lack hard valve seats and are used in heavy-duty truck, marine, agricultural or industrial applications. The cure here is to install hard seats. Stellite or hard faced valves may also be necessary if the valves show evidence of erosion.
Cooling problems in the engine itself can lead to valve sticking and burning if the operating temperature gets too high.
Low coolant, a defective thermostat, a weak water pump, a radiator obstruction, a defective cooling fan or fan switch, etc. can all make an engine run hot. This, in turn, makes the valve stems swell which may cause them to gall or stick in their guides if there is not enough clearance. If the valve sticks open, it can burn or be destroyed if it smacks the piston.
Blockages caused by casting flash inside the head or a head gasket that does not have the correct coolant holes can allow hot spots to form that can cause valve and guide problems. So too can a buildup of scale inside the head the interferes with good heat transfer.
Valves can also run hot because of elevated combustion temperatures. Factors such as retarded ignition timing, lean fuel mixtures (often due to vacuum leaks), detonation (from too much compression or low octane fuel) or preignition (from hot spots caused by deposits in the combustion chamber or too hot a spark plug) can all play a role here. Likewise, exhaust restrictions such as a clogged catalytic converter or crushed pipe can make the valves run hot.
When the head of this valve fatigued and broke off, it stuck in the top of this forged piston. Had this been a cast piston, it would have shattered and probably the entire engine!
Those shoes do indeed look a bit more appropriate.
1) That the HG was definitely blown? Or am I misunderstanding this question? Aside from the fact that they need to be cleaned up, I don't see anything that looks like a problem with the cylinders. 2) Possible causes include, but are not necessarily limited to: burning lean, running 87 octane, or some combination of those two.
3) I'm sure you could take this to any shop that deals in Volvos. I have a head I might be willing to part with if you'd rather just get a different one, but it's done like 270k so that might not be ideal. N heads with reasonable miles are getting hard to find, so a rebuild might be your best bet here.
4) Use only 91 octane*. I suppose you could also install an AFR gauge if you really wanted to. Also check/replace the MAF and O2 sensors as needed. Robert/Rspi/Robert DIY also speculates that this can be an issue in cars that are never driven hard.
It took us about 4 years to get enough confidence in our V70 to take it over 4,000 RPM (we had no idea the magnitude of what we'd gotten ourselves into and just how good these cars are when we bought it), and it does seem to be a bit happier now that we take it up to around 5,500 a few times a month.
Our local Sunoco that used to sell 91 re-franchised as a Mobil, so we usually have to mix our own 91 by first filling 1/3 tank of 87 and then 2/3 tank of 93 unless we are on a trip somewhere where there is a Sunoco or are in a state that classifies 93 as race fuel or has it in a different tax bracket for whatever reason. The order of filling is important to ensure the gas gets mixed up.
We used to put in 50/50 89 and 93 expecting that the gas would mix itself as we drove around, but that, rather surprisingly, seems to not be the case given that we used to get tanks where the fuel consumption would either go up or down throughout the tank depending on how we filled it before we perfected our technique.
At least you figured out what was causing the poor compression. I agree with the JaredR on the potential causes. Since you have it all apart you may want to go with a remanufactured head. Pretty sure there is a preferred place that folks on here or Volvospeed use, just not sure where that is. You may also want to check someplace near where you live that has experience with these or other euro motors.
Wow, that's nuts. I never thought about trying some experimenting with the fuel grade. But ever since I've owned this vehicle, I've always been anal about filling up with Chevron 93. Don't ask me why, but that's just what I've always used. So are you thinking by looking at the deposits from the exhaust valves that I have an AFR issue? And cleaning our MAF, replacing 02 sensors, and using 91 instead would be better?
He seemed pretty honest, knew what he was doing, and looking at all the shiny heads in the shop gave me a little confidence to go with him. I say this because his price was really cheap. Maybe you guys can chime in on what this should cost but he is charging me $160 to clean the head and do the job.
I will supply him with the 1 replacement valve that was burned along with the valve seals and he will do the rest. He tested it really quick to see if it was badly warped and he said it wasn't that bad so I should be okay.
I asked if any of the other valves needed replacing and he said no, just a good cleaning. Do you guys think that's a good deal? He actually dropped it down to $140 since he found out my uncle has a used car/mechanic shop.
On another note, hopefully when I get this head back all shiny and ready to go, in conjunction with the new parts I purchased for installation (head gasket kit, new pcv kit, new serpentine belt, timing belt, water pump, hardware, etc), what's to ensure this won't happen again in the near future? That's what really concerns me...
Is there a way to check if I have an AFR issue without installing a guage? Maybe if I hook up my OBD scanner, it can read the live data. Not sure if mine has that functionality.
And maybe I need to switch from 93 to 91 grade fuel if that's what's better for our cars.
Lastly, I got the head back all shiny with new valve seals and the replaced burnt valve so time to gradually put it back together. Since I need a new exhaust mani due to the old one being cracked, do you guys suggest a japanifold or the stock 850R mani? I've read it's just a matter of sound preference and not really any performance difference.
Anything else I should replace/upgrade since everything's outta the way? I'm gonna check and replave vacuum lines along with new belts, pcv reservoir, tensioners, and water pump.
The one you are thinking of that some people don't like the sound of is the "R" manifold from the P2s (I put "R" in quotes because it was used on a lot of the later P2s, not just the Rs). Most people think that the "R" manifold flows better than the Japanifold, but there are some people that think it is as good and some even think it is better. I've not seen anyone with proof either way. But there is no doubt that the stock manifold does not flow as well.
Sounds like you have most of the wear items covered but I'd also check the turbo while you're in there and proceed proceed as needed if you find excessive shaft play. I would be tempted to upgrade to a 16T and/or an angle flange setup if you find any issues (you should be able to do one/both without a remap).
Here's the head after it got redone. Replaced the burnt exhaust valve, put new valve seals, and all cleaned up. Also, got an R manifold to put on instead of the stock 850r mani that was cracked. Since everything is apart, I figured I should just upgrade the turbo since it's so accessible.
I'm really leaning towards a 19t. Do you guys recommend getting a new 19t like the spool control from ARD or should I just use my 15g and convert that to a 19t? Is there a difference besides saving a couple hundred bucks?
If your car is still an automatic, you aren't going to get as much benefit from a bigger turbo as you would if you had a stick. Also, the bigger the turbo up from stock, the more likely you are to bend a rod, especially on that high-mileage bottom end.
And even then, the big turbo is mostly just bragging rights without the supporting upgrades to go with it. With an automatic transmission, regular street tires and no limited slip, it's hard to put all the extra power down anyway.
For sure, makes sense. I definitely have plans to manual swap so that should take care of that. And plans for supporting mods as well. I'm eyeing an IPD exhaust and downpipe setup. I also have new snabb fresh air pipe and intercooler waiting in a box. Other than that, I'll be getting an ARD tune so I don't think a bent rod should be a concern with proper tuning as many people run 19ts just fine with stock internal.
Looks good for a fresh head and parts to re assemble.
Regarding the 19t -
15G to 19T might require a new down pipe setup for your 850. New down pipe will be a performance pipe and will then need a new Converter = then a new cat back - Prepare.. Research Angle flange vs Flat flange turbo.
Improve the turbo and efficiency - Better prepare to upgrade your Fueling And ECU Injectors and air. next prepare to upgrade your Intake system + Intercooler + Rip system
Also research - Ive read enough about Bent rods on 850's and P80s that personally staying away from a 19T .. 15G to a 16T is a good move=- even to a more rare 18T is a good move too. By that point anyhow - you will be boosting enough to squeal tires everywhere- the 19 can be overkill without further drivetrain mods.
Somewhere i found and read from Lucky WITH ARD had a nice write up about P80's being 4.3 or 4.4 ECU and fueling systems jsut cant control boost and fuel well enough like a later ME7 Car. Later ME7 cars can control and keep things together better vs bent rods and or burned pistons. that could be likely with the early fuel setups.
How deep down this hole do you want to go. I would personally fix what you got - and grow from there. once you know the engine is back solid and in good health.
Talk to Aaron at Beust. You can do a coil on plug conversion that will give the ecu individual control over cylinder ignition. He's done some of the nicest and well laid out tuned cars as well.
I would go with a 16T with angle flange DP and a Beust tune with COP conversion. That setup should pose zero risk to your engine. 18T would probably be fine, too, but I agree that you are going to hit the point of diminishing returns really fast with an automatic.
There was a time when ARD was cool but today is no longer that time. Look around a bit and you'll find plenty of stories.
Ask Robert at ARD about installing a 19t on a stock bottom end. Lot of people bend rods because the boost comes on too strong.
I think there are some ways to manage it, a different compressor wheel can help, but still... if you are headed that direction, I would just rebuild the bottom end while the rest of the motor is apart.
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コメント（56）
ＥＮ０７エンジンのバルブ割れ＆ヘッド割れ。
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/dclas_spsp/GALLERY/show_image.html?id=59407644&no=0
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/dclas_spsp/59407644.html
2017/3/23(木) 午後 0:50[ ogw*og*3 ]
ENG
損傷
http://www.autogeselle.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/DSC03811.jpg
http://www.autogeselle.com/archives/category/daily-subject
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:31[ ogw*og*3 ]
損傷写真は
以下からです。
http://www.aa1car.com/library/valve_burned.jpg
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar1192.htm
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:43[ ogw*og*3 ]
WHY ENGINE VALVES FAIL
Any valve will eventually wear out if driven enough miles. But many valves call it quits long before they should because of burning or breakage.
Let's talk about burning first. Exhaust valves are the ones most likely to burn because they run hotter than the intakes. The intake valves are cooled by the incoming air and fuel, and consequently operate at about 800 degrees F.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:45[ ogw*og*3 ]
Exhaust valves, on the other hand, receive little such cooling and are blasted by the hot combustion gases as they exit through the exhaust port. Exhaust valves run at 1200 to 1350 degrees F. on average, which makes them much more vulnerable to erosion and burning than intakes. The higher operating temperature requires a tougher alloy, so exhaust valves are usually made of stainless steel or have stainless steel heads (typically 21-2N or 21-4N alloy with a high chromium and nickel content).
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:46[ ogw*og*3 ]
For heavy-duty gasoline and diesel applications where heat is even more of a problem, a tough Stellite facing (cobalt alloy) may be needed on the exhaust valve face to control wear.
The intake and exhaust valves rely on physical contact with the valve seat and guide for cooling. About 75% of the combustion heat that is conducted away from the valve passes through the seat, so good seat contact is essential to prevent burning.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:48[ ogw*og*3 ]
The remaining 25% of the heat is dissipated up through the valve stem and out through the guides. Sodium filled hollow valve stems in heavy-duty applications are sometimes used to draw even more heat up through the stems to aid cooling. If the valve does not receive adequate cooling, it can overheat, burn and fail.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:48[ ogw*og*3 ]
The exhaust valve (the smaller of the two valves) in this engine has overheated and lost a chunk of metal, causing the cylinder to lose compression. Also note the failed exhaust valve is the same color as the intake valve. A "good" exhaust valve that is sealing and holding compression will usually have white or tan colored ash deposits on it.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:49[ ogw*og*3 ]
Anything that interferes with valve cooling or creates extra heat in the valve or head can lead to premature valve failure. A buildup of deposits on the valve face and seat can have an insulating effect that slows cooling and makes the valve run hot. So too can poor contact between the valve and seat if the seat is too narrow, nonconcentric or off-square.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:53[ ogw*og*3 ]
If deposits build up in one spot or flake off in another, it can allow leaks that create hot spots on the valve and result in "channeling" (grooves eroded or burned into the valve).
Weak springs or insufficient valve lash can also prevent good valve-to-seat contact and allow excessive heat to build up in the valves. A loose seat or poorly fitting guide can also hinder heat transfer to the head and contribute to burning.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 1:54[ ogw*og*3 ]
Not paying attention to the installed valve height when doing a valve job can lead to burning. When valves and seats are ground or cut, the valves sit deeper in the head than before. This causes the stems to stick up higher which changes the rocker arm geometry and may lead to a loss of valvelash when the engine gets hot.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:01[ ogw*og*3 ]
Two engines where this particular problem has been turning up are the Ford 2300 OHC engine and the rear-wheel drive version of the Mitsubishi 2.6L (which has hydraulic lash adjusters).
If the proper geometry cannot be restored by grinding the tips of the valve stems (no more than about .010 maximum or you run the risk of grinding through the case hardened layer), the seats should be replaced to correct installed height (an expensive fix but cheaper than a comeback).
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:02[ ogw*og*3 ]
Another option is to install valves with slightly oversized heads (.030 in.) that ride higher on the seat to compensate for seat machining.
Valve recession can cause the same kind of problem. As the seats wear away and the valves recede into the head, valvelash is lost. Eventually there is little or no lash left and the valve makes poor contact with the seat, overheats and burns.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:03[ ogw*og*3 ]
Valve recession tends to be more of a problem on older engines that lack hard valve seats and are used in heavy-duty truck, marine, agricultural or industrial applications. The cure here is to install hard seats. Stellite or hard faced valves may also be necessary if the valves show evidence of erosion.
Cooling problems in the engine itself can lead to valve sticking and burning if the operating temperature gets too high.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:04[ ogw*og*3 ]
Low coolant, a defective thermostat, a weak water pump, a radiator obstruction, a defective cooling fan or fan switch, etc. can all make an engine run hot. This, in turn, makes the valve stems swell which may cause them to gall or stick in their guides if there is not enough clearance. If the valve sticks open, it can burn or be destroyed if it smacks the piston.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:12[ ogw*og*3 ]
Blockages caused by casting flash inside the head or a head gasket that does not have the correct coolant holes can allow hot spots to form that can cause valve and guide problems. So too can a buildup of scale inside the head the interferes with good heat transfer.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:12[ ogw*og*3 ]
Valves can also run hot because of elevated combustion temperatures. Factors such as retarded ignition timing, lean fuel mixtures (often due to vacuum leaks), detonation (from too much compression or low octane fuel) or preignition (from hot spots caused by deposits in the combustion chamber or too hot a spark plug) can all play a role here. Likewise, exhaust restrictions such as a clogged catalytic converter or crushed pipe can make the valves run hot.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:13[ ogw*og*3 ]
When the head of this valve fatigued and broke off, it stuck in the top of this forged piston.
Had this been a cast piston, it would have shattered and probably the entire engine!
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:14[ ogw*og*3 ]
burnt-valve.jpg
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/burnt-valve.jpg
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/what-causes-a-valve-to-burn.html
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:23[ ogw*og*3 ]
the valve burned
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?322617-Replacing-Engine-amp-Manual-Transmission
http://i.imgur.com/qCOy0yO.jpg
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:47[ ogw*og*3 ]
Those shoes do indeed look a bit more appropriate.
1) That the HG was definitely blown? Or am I misunderstanding this question? Aside from the fact that they need to be cleaned up, I don't see anything that looks like a problem with the cylinders.
2) Possible causes include, but are not necessarily limited to: burning lean, running 87 octane, or some combination of those two.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:57[ ogw*og*3 ]
3) I'm sure you could take this to any shop that deals in Volvos. I have a head I might be willing to part with if you'd rather just get a different one, but it's done like 270k so that might not be ideal. N heads with reasonable miles are getting hard to find, so a rebuild might be your best bet here.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:57[ ogw*og*3 ]
4) Use only 91 octane*. I suppose you could also install an AFR gauge if you really wanted to. Also check/replace the MAF and O2 sensors as needed. Robert/Rspi/Robert DIY also speculates that this can be an issue in cars that are never driven hard.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:58[ ogw*og*3 ]
It took us about 4 years to get enough confidence in our V70 to take it over 4,000 RPM (we had no idea the magnitude of what we'd gotten ourselves into and just how good these cars are when we bought it), and it does seem to be a bit happier now that we take it up to around 5,500 a few times a month.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?322617-Replacing-Engine-amp-Manual-Transmission
2017/3/23(木) 午後 2:59[ ogw*og*3 ]
*93/94 or whatever you might have in your area will work, too, but our experience indicates that 93 octane delivers worse fuel economy than 91.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:01[ ogw*og*3 ]
Our local Sunoco that used to sell 91 re-franchised as a Mobil, so we usually have to mix our own 91 by first filling 1/3 tank of 87 and then 2/3 tank of 93 unless we are on a trip somewhere where there is a Sunoco or are in a state that classifies 93 as race fuel or has it in a different tax bracket for whatever reason. The order of filling is important to ensure the gas gets mixed up.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:02[ ogw*og*3 ]
We used to put in 50/50 89 and 93 expecting that the gas would mix itself as we drove around, but that, rather surprisingly, seems to not be the case given that we used to get tanks where the fuel consumption would either go up or down throughout the tank depending on how we filled it before we perfected our technique.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:03[ ogw*og*3 ]
At least you figured out what was causing the poor compression. I agree with the JaredR on the potential causes. Since you have it all apart you may want to go with a remanufactured head. Pretty sure there is a preferred place that folks on here or Volvospeed use, just not sure where that is. You may also want to check someplace near where you live that has experience with these or other euro motors.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:05[ ogw*og*3 ]
There may be other things you should address while you're in there but I'm just not sure what those items would be. Great progress!
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:06[ ogw*og*3 ]
Wow, that's nuts. I never thought about trying some experimenting with the fuel grade. But ever since I've owned this vehicle, I've always been anal about filling up with Chevron 93. Don't ask me why, but that's just what I've always used. So are you thinking by looking at the deposits from the exhaust valves that I have an AFR issue? And cleaning our MAF, replacing 02 sensors, and using 91 instead would be better?
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:16[ ogw*og*3 ]
I appreciate the offer on the head but as you already inferred, that's a big mileage difference than my vehicle's 130k to date.
Would there be any other causes though? I took the head to a machinist someone locally recommended.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:17[ ogw*og*3 ]
He seemed pretty honest, knew what he was doing, and looking at all the shiny heads in the shop gave me a little confidence to go with him. I say this because his price was really cheap. Maybe you guys can chime in on what this should cost but he is charging me $160 to clean the head and do the job.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:18[ ogw*og*3 ]
I will supply him with the 1 replacement valve that was burned along with the valve seals and he will do the rest. He tested it really quick to see if it was badly warped and he said it wasn't that bad so I should be okay.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:19[ ogw*og*3 ]
I asked if any of the other valves needed replacing and he said no, just a good cleaning. Do you guys think that's a good deal? He actually dropped it down to $140 since he found out my uncle has a used car/mechanic shop.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:20[ ogw*og*3 ]
On another note, hopefully when I get this head back all shiny and ready to go, in conjunction with the new parts I purchased for installation (head gasket kit, new pcv kit, new serpentine belt, timing belt, water pump, hardware, etc), what's to ensure this won't happen again in the near future? That's what really concerns me...
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:20[ ogw*og*3 ]
The deposits combined with the burnt valve lead me to think that this car has/had a fuel and/or AFR issue at some point in its life.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:21[ ogw*og*3 ]
Is there a way to check if I have an AFR issue without installing a guage? Maybe if I hook up my OBD scanner, it can read the live data. Not sure if mine has that functionality.
And maybe I need to switch from 93 to 91 grade fuel if that's what's better for our cars.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:22[ ogw*og*3 ]
Lastly, I got the head back all shiny with new valve seals and the replaced burnt valve so time to gradually put it back together. Since I need a new exhaust mani due to the old one being cracked, do you guys suggest a japanifold or the stock 850R mani? I've read it's just a matter of sound preference and not really any performance difference.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:22[ ogw*og*3 ]
Anything else I should replace/upgrade since everything's outta the way? I'm gonna check and replave vacuum lines along with new belts, pcv reservoir, tensioners, and water pump.
I appreciate the help!
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:23[ ogw*og*3 ]
Glad you are getting closer! But no pictures of this wonderful shiny head?
This might help with your AFR questions: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...newb-questions
The Japanifold is definitely an upgrade over the regular 850 manifold.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:25[ ogw*og*3 ]
The one you are thinking of that some people don't like the sound of is the "R" manifold from the P2s (I put "R" in quotes because it was used on a lot of the later P2s, not just the Rs). Most people think that the "R" manifold flows better than the Japanifold, but there are some people that think it is as good and some even think it is better. I've not seen anyone with proof either way. But there is no doubt that the stock manifold does not flow as well.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:30[ ogw*og*3 ]
Sounds like you have most of the wear items covered but I'd also check the turbo while you're in there and proceed proceed as needed if you find excessive shaft play. I would be tempted to upgrade to a 16T and/or an angle flange setup if you find any issues (you should be able to do one/both without a remap).
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:30[ ogw*og*3 ]
JaredR is correct that the "R" manifold is just the 2004 and up 5 cylinder turbo manifold.
Your burned valve could also be from an oil leak from the valve stem seal. You can overhaul the head or put on a new one.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:31[ ogw*og*3 ]
Upon Reassemebly.
Make sure to buy and use Genuine Volvo Pink Anerobic Sealer for the Head Cam cover... accept no substitutes.
I have an original 850R manifold if interested. In Good condition (I installed a Japanifold when doing my headjob) (cheap + shipping)
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:32[ ogw*og*3 ]
Here's the head after it got redone. Replaced the burnt exhaust valve, put new valve seals, and all cleaned up. Also, got an R manifold to put on instead of the stock 850r mani that was cracked. Since everything is apart, I figured I should just upgrade the turbo since it's so accessible.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:33[ ogw*og*3 ]
I'm really leaning towards a 19t. Do you guys recommend getting a new 19t like the spool control from ARD or should I just use my 15g and convert that to a 19t? Is there a difference besides saving a couple hundred bucks?
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:34[ ogw*og*3 ]
If your car is still an automatic, you aren't going to get as much benefit from a bigger turbo as you would if you had a stick. Also, the bigger the turbo up from stock, the more likely you are to bend a rod, especially on that high-mileage bottom end.
And even then, the big turbo is mostly just bragging rights without the supporting upgrades to go with it. With an automatic transmission, regular street tires and no limited slip, it's hard to put all the extra power down anyway.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:35[ ogw*og*3 ]
For sure, makes sense. I definitely have plans to manual swap so that should take care of that. And plans for supporting mods as well. I'm eyeing an IPD exhaust and downpipe setup. I also have new snabb fresh air pipe and intercooler waiting in a box. Other than that, I'll be getting an ARD tune so I don't think a bent rod should be a concern with proper tuning as many people run 19ts just fine with stock internal.
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2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:37[ ogw*og*3 ]
Looks good for a fresh head and parts to re assemble.
Regarding the 19t -
15G to 19T might require a new down pipe setup for your 850. New down pipe will be a performance pipe and will then need a new Converter = then a new cat back - Prepare.. Research Angle flange vs Flat flange turbo.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:39[ ogw*og*3 ]
Improve the turbo and efficiency - Better prepare to upgrade your Fueling And ECU Injectors and air. next prepare to upgrade your Intake system + Intercooler + Rip system
Also research - Ive read enough about Bent rods on 850's and P80s that personally staying away from a 19T .. 15G to a 16T is a good move=- even to a more rare 18T is a good move too. By that point anyhow - you will be boosting enough to squeal tires everywhere- the 19 can be overkill without further drivetrain mods.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:40[ ogw*og*3 ]
Somewhere i found and read from Lucky WITH ARD had a nice write up about P80's being 4.3 or 4.4 ECU and fueling systems jsut cant control boost and fuel well enough like a later ME7 Car. Later ME7 cars can control and keep things together better vs bent rods and or burned pistons. that could be likely with the early fuel setups.
How deep down this hole do you want to go.
I would personally fix what you got - and grow from there. once you know the engine is back solid and in good health.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:40[ ogw*og*3 ]
Talk to Aaron at Beust. You can do a coil on plug conversion that will give the ecu individual control over cylinder ignition. He's done some of the nicest and well laid out tuned cars as well.
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2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:41[ ogw*og*3 ]
I would go with a 16T with angle flange DP and a Beust tune with COP conversion. That setup should pose zero risk to your engine. 18T would probably be fine, too, but I agree that you are going to hit the point of diminishing returns really fast with an automatic.
There was a time when ARD was cool but today is no longer that time. Look around a bit and you'll find plenty of stories.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:42[ ogw*og*3 ]
Ask Robert at ARD about installing a 19t on a stock bottom end. Lot of people bend rods because the boost comes on too strong.
I think there are some ways to manage it, a different compressor wheel can help, but still... if you are headed that direction, I would just rebuild the bottom end while the rest of the motor is apart.
2017/3/23(木) 午後 3:43[ ogw*og*3 ]
4枚目の写真は以下から
the valve burned
http://www.bikesindia.org/uploads/image/reviews/2016/march/burnt-valves.jpg
http://www.bikesindia.org/reviews/causes-of-burnt-valves-or-engine-valve-failure-explained.html
2017/3/23(木) 午後 4:05[ ogw*og*3 ]
Valve burned、#2
焼損バルブ
ハイゼット H２０年式 エンジン不調
http://livedoor.blogimg.jp/taishishaken/imgs/6/9/69915e24.jpg
http://taishishaken.blog.jp/archives/1824939.html
2017/3/29(水) 午後 4:21[ ogw*og*3 ]